Japanese Alpinists Embark on Bold Quest to Conquer the Unclimbed as They Set Sights on Himalayan Summits

There is no greater joy than to tame the spine-chilling trepidation and come out on the flip side of it, victorious. This seems to be the exact mission that Yasuhiro Hanatani has embarked upon.

When Hanatani won the prestigious Piolet D’Or, he was already planning a larger climb in the Himalayas. The 47-year-old initiated the Himalaya Camp Project back in 2015 to inspire and support the young climbing community. Now, Hanatani’s team is making headlines as they dare to conquer the glistening peaks of the unknown. 

Yasuhiro Hanatani’s 6000m adventure 

Spearheaded by Hanatani himself, the Japanese team has set foot on Ohmi Kangri Himal, located in the western part of Kanchenjunga. The team will be attempting to climb the Sato & Sharpu VI peaks belonging to the Sharpu group of mountains. The ascent is expected to be one of the toughest as both the peaks stand at a gigantic 6164m and 6076m respectively. 

Hanatani’s team consists of 7 members which includes reputed climbers like Takahiro Ishikawa, Takahiro Kaneko & Saki Terada. They are expected to commence their ascent in October. The group will be split into two as three members will attempt the Sato Peak while the remaining four will climb the Sharpu VI. According to sources, the descent is scheduled to be over by November. 

Treading in uncharted territories

The vision to climb Sharpu VI is unique because of its unpredictable nature. This group of mountains, numbered from I to VI is a dangerous chain of snow-covered rocks, with all of them surpassing the 6000m mark. However, though other peaks of this group have been climbed, Sharpu VI remains untouched by humans. The danger element was so high that the government did not allow mountaineers in this region until 2002. 

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On the other hand, the Sato Peak too, comes with its own sets of perils. In 2022, Silvia Loreggian & Stefano Ragazzo began the ascent to the 6164m peak. However, due to slippery surfaces and loose snow all around, the climbers were forced to redirect their mission. The duo ended up reaching the east-southeast summit after a six-hour and 6160m climb. The deteriorating weather compelled the Italian duo to retract, while the Sato Peak remained untouched. 

With ambitions set high, Hanatani’s team is confident about triumphing in their Mission Impossible, as the perilously alluring peaks await their first face-off with humans. Do you think Yasuhiro Hanatani and his group will be able to make history? Let us know in the comments below. 

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