Iconic American climber Ed Viesturs is well known for his unparalleled achievements in high-altitude mountaineering. Recently, Ed was seen taking a surprising stance that raised questions in the climbing community. Despite being recognized as the first American to conquer all 14 of the world’s tallest mountains, he had a different perspective.
In 2005, Ed Viesturs achieved a monumental feat by becoming the first American to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks. Towering above the audacious height, Ed refused to accept the Guinness World Record title that came with his daring venture. With a firm belief that Reinhold Messner deserves to be recognized as the first to achieve this astonishing mountaineering milestone, he declared his decision.
Mountaineering legend stripped off his records
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Viesturs established his opinion, stating that he was not the true pioneer of the Guinness title. His awe-inspiring journey, which spanned 18 years, was built on a close follow-up of Messner’s footsteps. Considering Reinhold as the initial climber to accomplish this remarkable feat, Ed stated, “I don’t believe that I’m the first. I still believe that Messner is the first.” Messner’s climbing dispute arose when German historian Eberhard Jurgalski claimed that the mountaineering legacy had failed in his trip.
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Jurgalski’s report claimed that Reinhold had never achieved the ‘true summit’ of Annapurna, leading to the revocation of Messner’s Guinness World Records. Viesturs, however, found this argument irrelevant, as he believed it was difficult to comprehend for those who have not experienced these treacherous ascents. Ed felt Jurgalski was unable to realize the intricacies involved during climbing, which made him think that Reinhold might have stopped 15 feet below the target summit.
Climbing legacy upheld with a beam of respect
Viesturs, in a recent Instagram post, expressed his profound respect for Reinhold Messner and his contemporaries. Appreciating the bravehearts who embarked on the challenging journey of conquering these towering giants, Ed shared a word of acknowledgment. Expressing his candid thoughts on how climbing should be a personal journey rather than aiming for a list or setting records, Viesturs exhibited gratitude towards Reinhold.
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“He led the way, not only in style but also physically and psychologically, by climbing without supplemental oxygen”, Ed remarked. Highlighting the deadly risks involved in high-stake climbing, Viesturs found the nitpicking over records and summit claims somewhat ridiculous. As recent times showcased Kristin Harila and Nims Purja captivating the media on these towering peaks, Viesturs admired their accomplishments. However, he also emphasized that their tactics of supplemental oxygen and support teams differed significantly from the pioneering spirit of Messner.
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Ed also narrated his belief that mainstream alpinism’s focus on speed is a regression, rather than a progression in the world of climbing. He viewed Messner as a visionary who revolutionized mountaineering by choosing routes less traveled, that too without supplemental oxygen. With the bold decision of refraining from acceptance of the Guinness title, Viesturs exhibited his unwavering respect for Reinhold’s groundbreaking achievements. Remarkably, Ed Viesturs and Reinhold Messner are also set to meet for the first time on October 14, during a sports festival in Trento, Italy. The event is ready to discuss the fallout from Guinness’ decision, while the climbing world watches them with fascination.
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