“I Was a Terrible Person”: 74-Year-Old Veteran Surfer Confessed, Reaching the Top Needs Fearless Ruthlessness

The 74-year-old surfing legend Gerry Lopez is well-recognized in the community. He did more than just shape the surfboard; he exuded an air of fearlessness while surfing the dangerous waves of Honolulu, Hawaii. At the right season, these waves may reach heights of 30-50 feet, making them anything from a joke. The large waves were no problem for Lopez, however.

Patagonia has published a documentary by award-winning director Stacy Peralta titled The Yin and Yang of Gerry Lopez, which provides new insight into one of surfing’s most enigmatic icons. Many notable surfers and figures attest to Gerry Lopez’s ferocity while he was at the height of his career in this documentary. He openly acknowledges that he was very competitive and infamous at conquering these big waves.

The notoriety of the surfing veteran

It’s common knowledge that Gerry Lopez is Mr. Pipeline. His reputation as one of the most fearless surfers of his day was well-deserved. Several seasoned surfers attest to Lopez’s boldness after seeing his supremacy firsthand. Mr. Pipeline’s skill set was unconcerned by the fact that Honolulu is home to one of the world’s most deadly waves. Veteran surfers hail that after more than 10,000 hours of practice, he became a fierce competitor during tournaments, fueled by every wipeout and error.

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In the documentary, which was posted on Patagonia’s official YouTube channel, Gerry Lopez talks about his competitive spree, saying, “I was a terrible person. I had no qualms whatsoever about taking waves from people that were already trying to ride them.” He admits that he was very competitive when riding these hazardous waves, and describes how he would often annoy his fellow surfers by riding side by side on a single wave, which is quite risky. During his surf sessions, Mr. Pipeline demanded and received respect from his other surfers; no one dared approach him for fear of being obliterated. His aggressiveness in the waves never let him lose control, making him the most graceful surfer ever.

The growth of aggressiveness in the sport

In the ocean, Gerry Lopez was undoubtedly belligerent, but he had a valid reason. The number of individuals participating in and even competing in surfing skyrocketed. This was encouraging, since the sport was clearly gaining popularity, but Mr. Pipeline was not keen on being dethroned by a greenhorn. Therefore, whether he was surfing for fun or competitively, he always gave his best.

In the documentary, Mr. Pipeline talks about the sport’s epic growth, saying, “In the early ’70s, surfing was going through this growth period where all of the sudden, there were too many surfers, too many good surfers, and the whole traditional social order of the lineup was being altered. In this new world, you absolutely had to be aggressive.”

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What do you think of the veteran surfer’s notorious reputation? Let us know in the comment section.