“The Wave Just, Like, Ate Me”: 25-Year-Old Olympian Recalled the Horrors of Surfing at Pipeline in Hawaii

The extremities that accompany the sport of surfing are simply a part of the job. Despite this fact, surfers prioritize the adrenaline rush, often over their own lives. The euphoric stigma when they swoosh against a wave is beyond comparable. Hence, the gliders are ready to risk it all!

Here’s a similar story of Olympic surfers who dedicated their whole life to the extreme. Riding through tunnels of water, taming massive tides, and overthrowing mortality. 

Leon Glatzer’s faces the wrath of the Pipelines

An article published by Culture Trip in 2017, depicted Olympian Surfer Leon Glatzer’s life-threatening encounter while surfing at the Pipeline in Hawaii. Initially, the German-origin surfer discovered his passion for the sport at the age of three while growing up on the Costa Rican islands. Later, at the age of 23, he competed in the 2020 Olympics.

Describing a deadly incident, Glatzer said, “I was there waiting one time and I was so over it, but then this wave comes that nobody went for.” The surfer acknowledged his time at the Pipelines to be the best, as well as terrifying to the core. Moreover, he correlated the chronology of surfers to a wolf pack. The foremost being the locals alongside the World Championship Tour competitors, following them were him and his companions, the professional surfers. He jumped onto his board to ride the forbidden wave that nobody was going for, soon realizing why. “It was a close-out, the whole thing just dumped. The wave just, like, ate me.” Leon revealed. 

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Glatzer hit the reef and blacked out. He explained the moment as, “My body felt like butterflies and everything was slowly going dark”. Fortunately, the then 23-year-old surfer regained consciousness and found himself clinging to his board. Soon, he got to the beach. “Touched the back of my head and it was all full of blood. My whole hand was covered and I was so scared I fainted again”, he added. Leon marked the incident as a ‘close call’.

California Surfer Who Dodged a Shark Attack

According to reports, California surfer, Jared Trainor was attacked by a shark while he was surfing at Centerville Beach in California. It was estimated to be the peak season for shark migration. However, the 31-year-old tackled the adversity and got out breathing, although with severe injuries. Trainor claimed, “Its lower jaws had the board and its upper jaws had my leg”. In spite of all things bizarre, Jared remained optimistic about his passion sport in addition to being grateful for his life. He said,  “I’m grateful to be alive”. Further adding that he loves surfing to the extent that this incident might cater to some sort of “newfound appreciation”.

In lieu of the wild yet fascinating incidents occurring in the world of surfing, there is surely a ‘newfound appreciation’ for the stakeholders. Surfing in the lap of nature comes with its own set of pros and cons. But it is evident that these gliders are zeroed-in on the pros and it’s certainly worth it! Let us know what you thought of the mind-numbing incidents.

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