“So Violent Underwater”: Big Wave King Let Fear Take a Backseat in This Unbelievable Show of Surfing Skill

Ian Walsh has earned the right to be called one of the most consummate professional big-wave surfers in the world. Walsh has undertaken the ginormous task of hunting every major swell event in the Pacific. Be it Jaws or Mavericks, he wants to conquer every last one. His dedication to the craft knows no bounds.

The Maui native has been intercepting big waves since he was a teenager. And he has chased waves all around the world. This experience shows up in his skills, not only in contests but even when he is performing for cameras or simply just enjoying a wave by himself.

Ian Walsh, the big wave phenomenon

My Last Two Winters is a series that looks at the lives of famous big-wave surfers. The aim of the series is to perceive the motivation behind why big-wave surfers do what they do. The series has an episode dedicated to Ian Walsh in which he reveals the details of a dangerous big wave surfing incident. He recalls, “Oh man! That was so violent underwater. I was just like… my ears are hurting, the thing wouldn’t inflate because I went so deep.”

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In spite of some scary encounters with the waves, Walsh expressed exactly how much he loved big-wave surfing. He lives for the challenge and excitement of big waves. He said, “There’s definitely an understanding or respect for certain waves. Big waves are really challenging. They are very unpredictable, very dangerous. And when things come together it can be one of the best moments of your life. And I think it’s a very rare opportunity to push yourselves at such a high level.”

It is clear from his words that big wave surfing makes him feel alive, even though it is a dangerous gamble. But what is the reason behind Walsh’s love for the big waves? According to him, “Growing up this close to Jaws has definitely changed the way I see waves and the ocean.” However, his rationale is not limited to that.

The motivation behind Walsh’s big wave obsession

The Maui native has been demolishing waves like those at Jaws when he was merely 16 years old. After he finished high school he had to take a hiatus from surfing due to an injury. During that time, he started studying meteorology, which gave him the foundation to predict just when an ideal wave would hit. That’s when his obsession grew. For Walsh, surfing big waves is not something he does, just because he can.

The emotional reasons seem to be much bigger for him. He explained, “I just have like a sense of calm of this is where I’m supposed to be and there’s nowhere else in the world where I’d want to be than being a part of this session, watching it unfold. Feeling it unfold, and giving yourself an opportunity to really push yourself when you’re fearful and control your body when it doesn’t want you to.”

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The risks have clearly turned into rewards for Ian Walsh because he is one of the most renowned big-wave surfers in the world right now. His dedication is inspiring and his courage is an important lesson for everyone.