The oceans of Nazare, Portugal harbor some of the biggest waves that can rear up in haphazard and unpredictable ways from all directions. To paddle through those vicious waves, one has to focus on the barrels with a clear vision, right? Well, Matthew Formston, an Australian blind surfer has surfed through giant barrels of Nazare with exceptional finesse and proved that all he needs is his surfboard and passion to ride the giant wave pinnacles.
Underneath the Nazare canyon, resides the 130-mile undersea trench which causes a vast concentration of energy to the water before it rises up towards the surface. Because of its size and strength, the XL swells of the canyon can be tricky to ride through. However, in November 2022, Formston was there to trounce the giant swells and he did so in the most incredible fashion. So, what really drives Formston to take the huge risks that come with surfing the most dangerous spot?
Matt Formston’s passion for his beloved sport helped him paddle the horrifying waves of Nazare
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As per the report of Esquire, after surfing through the big waves of the Portuguese canyon, the 44-year-old opened up about his winning strategy. Expressing his perspective on death, the surfer stated, “People talk about death, and it’s quite morbid”. Conceding with the trust he places in his team, the Australian asserted, “I’ve got my team, I’ve done the training”.
Now, when it comes to apprehension that the Nazare swells usually induce in its spectators, Formston rather has a different outlook. The 44-year-old mentioned, “Technically, everything is as broken down as it can be; every little piece of the project has been considered. When you do that, it takes away a lot of fear”.
Read More: Video: Surfer Escapes Life-Threatening Waves in One of the Most Dramatic Rescues
As per the surfer, it is important to understand “what you are actually undertaking and what the actual risks are”. Clearly, For Formston his disability isn’t his weakness. In fact, it gives him “the strength” to defeat the most challenging waves that come his way.
The victorious wave saga of Matt Formston
When he was five, the Australian was diagnosed with Macular Dystrophy – a condition which eventually reduces eyesight to 0% (central vision) and 5% (peripheral vision). However, in the chorus of “you can’t”, his parents taught him “let’s just find a way”. During his upbringing, this ideology stuck with him and he found his solace in the infinity of the sea. The next thing we know is Matt Formston winning the 2017, 2018, and 2020 ISA World Para Surfing championships.
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He even framed the 2016, 2017, 2018, and 2019 Australian championships victories on his wall of fame. Interestingly, the surfer stood atop the podium of the US Adaptive competitions in 2018 and 2020. Whether it is Billabong or an XL swell of Nazare, Matt Formston makes these waves seem uncomplicated. He indeed is a staunch champion through and through, don’t you think?
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