“It Was So Violent and So Painful”: Big-Wave Surfer Once Recalled His Nightmarish Wipeout at One of the Most Horrifying Surfing Destinations

Getting comfortable with the uncomfortable might be the surviving mantra of people when it comes to surfing. The entertainment that the sport is to provide often comes up with spine-chilling experiences that are enveloped beneath. And that had been quite the same case with Andrew Cotton, a big-wave surfer from North Denver.

The 38-year-old surfer gave an interview to The Guardian one year back, where he detailed an incident in Nazare, Portugal. Evidently, it was the biggest wipe-out he had ever faced, and what he perceived as the wave of the day almost became the last wave of his life. The accident resulted in a life-threatening injury for Cotton and took one whole year from his career. Let’s scroll down to know more from him after the metamorphosis.

A regular surfing day turned into a near-death experience

Besides being a surfer, Cotton is an adventurer and that probably stimulates him to face the uncertainties in life. He was only 8 when Andrew found his passion in surfing, and from then on, there was no looking back for him. However, in 2017, he visited Nazare in Portugal to conquer the giant waves, where he met with his nightmare. In 2021, he spoke about the accident with The Guardian.

Evidently, there was an “exciting swell forecast”, and Cotton was sliding through the water when he saw a colossal wave emerging. Thinking of it as “the wave of the day” Cotton enjoyed riding inside the barrel until he understood that he was in the “worst position.” While losing balance he almost knew the impact. As Cotton stated, “I actually impacted the water, hit the flat. The impact was so severe. It was almost like I was landing on concrete, and I instantly knew. It was so violent and so painful, I instantly knew.”

Read More – “Serious, Serious, Serious Surfing”: Sensational Ripper Takes on a Boat at the Pipeline

After this massive wipeout, Cotton had a gruesome injury and broke his back. As he shared the ‘perfect’ wave changed from ‘the best wave’ to the ‘worst’ within milliseconds. But perhaps the surfer was determined enough to visit the place again after 3 years.

A shot at redemption

After the severe injury, Cotton was exempted from any kind of activities for the next six months. During that time he went through several medications and physiotherapy. It took him another six months to go back to the sea and make progress to be back into big waves again. In 2020, the surfer again visited Nazare with the same enthusiasm as before. Evidently, he went there to redeem himself. And that time he actually managed to face and conquer the giant waves, taking back what he lost there.

Watch This Story – Surfing Santas Event Is going to be literally “cold” this year

The story of Andrew Cotton doesn’t only explain the severities that come with the sport, but he also is the embodiment of willpower and determination, to earn his metamorphosis within a short span. Did his story inspire you? Let us know.