Rohini Kottu is a UFC Writer at EssentiallySports. She is also a Psychologist and has a Master's degree in Clinical Psychology. Rohini, in her role as a UFC writer, combines her admiration for the mental resilience that MMA fighters have and her love for analysis. She has been following UFC since 2020 and very often contemplates the psyche of fighters while they are in action and wonders what kind of mental preparation goes into it. This is reflected in her copies about the sport. Ironically, being a Nate Diaz fan, she can't watch a ton of blood being spilt in the octagon. In her free time, she likes to write poetry or read novels.

With the thrill of paddling on the wave’s crest comes unprecedented outcomes. Hence, the surfing [https://www.essentiallysports.com/category/surfing/] domain is utterly terrifying, with many such stories coming forth frequently. A 61-year-old surfer from Vista, California recently fell prey to the ocean’s wrath and lost his life in the process. D’Arcy Ferreira was an attorney based in California who had a life-long penchant for surfing big waves. He had been paddling on giant barrels since he was just a 12-year-old kid. It is this passion that tragically saw him breathe his last. The father of four and grandfather of four, Ferreira, was pursuing his favorite activity when a barrel came in and drowned him to death. SURFING GRANDFATHER PASSED AWAY WHILE CHASING BIG WAVES On 5th May 2023, Ferreira was paddling with his 19-year-old son at Oceanside Pier. As per the report by 10 News San Diego [https://www.10news.com/news/local-news/grandfather-attorney-dies-during-surfing-accident-at-oceanside-pier], the surfer was 100 yards away from the shore when he finished paddling a wave. He was just making his way toward another torrent when the wipeout took him by surprise and left him brutally lacerated. Explaining the surfing mishap, Ferreira’s wife stated, “He dove headfirst. He was just in a lot shallower place than he thought he was. He misjudged it.” After some time, the attorney’s son spotted him floating face first. Following this, the 19-year-old paddled toward his father and took him to the safety of the shore. The boy performed CPR and tried to resuscitate him, before he was transferred to the hospital. Things went further downhill when the diagnosis report asserted fractures in the neck and a severed artery along the spine. The surfer was declared brain dead, and two days later, he passed away. Ravaged with her husband’s unfortunate demise, Ferreira’s wife said, “Devastating. Just Devastating.” Adding words to her agony, she said, “That reality hits you that he’s not here, and he’s not coming back.” [https://image-cdn.essentiallysports.com/wp-content/uploads/WhatsApp-Image-2023-05-07-at-4.02.22-AM.jpeg] It indeed was one terrifying accident. [https://www.essentiallysports.com/us-sports-news-surfing-news-everybody-was-pretty-scared-surfing-the-mexican-death-slab-shows-the-horrifying-nature-of-the-sport/] However, the surfer’s wife found solace in knowing that her husband “died doing the thing he loved the very most.” Remembering his beliefs, the surfer’s spouse mentioned that as an attorney, the 61-year-old always wanted “to be part of the solution, and not part of the problem.” Watch This Story: Kelly Slater’s Little Buddy Gets Special Praise from Surfing Legend Following His Sensational Win [https://www.essentiallysports.com/stories/us-sports-news-surfing-news-kelly-slaters-little-buddy-gets-special-praise-from-surfing-legend-following-his-sensational-win/] 

Loved ones mourn the loss as the 61-year-old Californian surfer fell prey to a
brutal wipeout and ended up losing his life.

Purva Jain is a senior sports writer for Essentially Sports. With her expertise
in surfing, Purva has a deep passion for the ocean and a love for the thrill of
big waves. Author of ‘Gold and Brown’, ‘Chasing the North Star’ and ‘Light
Beneath the Shadows’, Purva idolizes Kelly Slater, taking to heart his famous
quote, "There's always a wave you want to surf." This mentality has led Purva to
explore various sports such as MMA, bodybuilding, and NHL. While Purva draws
inspiration from sports icons like Slater and Laird Hamilton, she also looks to
action-comedy star Jackie Chan for inspiration. Purva admires Chan's philosophy
of finding humor in adversity, and his versatility, which reflects in her own
work. From bodybuilding legend Arnold Schwarzenegger to ice hockey God Wayne
Gretzky, Purva's writing covers a wide range of sports and personalities. When
she's not putting words to paper, Purva can be found sitting in her quiet
corner, looking for the next big wave.

https://image-cdn.essentiallysports.com/wp-content/uploads/Purva_Jain_USS-1.png

Purva Jain

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strong

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Evert on Her Special Day

When put simply, surfing is the act of standing up on a specially designed-board and riding a wave. The choice of construction of the board varies from level of experience to personal preference. It is an exhilarating water sport that seems pretty straightforward but is far from one. From different kinds of surfboards to events to even particular kinds of waves, each factor changes the face of the game in an instant. In the early days, surfing was done exclusively in the ocean but now also happens in the US Great Lakes, The Mediterranean Sea, and even artificial wave pools.

<img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1401608" src="https://image-cdn.essentiallysports.com/wp-content/uploads/surfingwipeouts.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="500" />
<h2>History of Surfing</h2>
Famously dubbed 'the sport of Kings,' Surfing originated in Hawaii. The island's royalty and commoners practiced the sport as a recreational activity in the early 20th century. Touring surfers took the sport with them back to countries like the US and Australia, where it transformed into a global phenomenon. In 1976, a World Surfing Tour was founded, which is now called the World Surf League (WSL). Surfing has now grown into a multi-billion dollar industry and is governed by the International Surfing Association, representing 55 nations across the planet.
<h2>The four kinds of Surfboards</h2>
There are majorly four different kinds of surfboard that a surfer can choose from. Ranging from a short one to a long one, every surfer chooses these based on personal preference and expertise. But amateur surfers are advised to start with the longest possible board.

Here is the breakdown of every board:

<strong>1. Shortboard:</strong> Is a six and a half feet or shorter board. Has little volume and three fins attached to the bottom. It is specifically designed for high-performance surfing.

<strong>2. Mini Mal, Mini Tanker, Funboard, Fish, Egg, Bonzer:</strong> These boards make up the rest of the shorter-side boards. While varying between five and eight feet, these boards have more volume than a shortboard.

<strong>3. Gun:</strong> A seven to nine feet board designed for surfing on large waves.

<strong>4. Longboards:</strong> The biggest of the bunch. These boards measure at nine feet or up. These boards come with either a tri-fin setup or a single-fin setup (best for classic surfing).
<h2>Types of Surfing Waves</h2>
Much like the boards, the waves also make a huge difference to the surfing experience. A swell is essential for surfing, without which one cannot surf. On average, a swell travels at roughly 15-20mph when it hits the shore. Broadly, there are three major waves identified in the surfing world.

<strong>1. Surging Waves:</strong> Useless for surfing. These waves come from deep water and onto steep beaches. And instead of breaking, these waves surge up on the beach.

<strong>2. Spilling Waves:</strong> A gently sloping sea floor gives way to these waves, causing a gradual peak. The energy release is rather slow, hence the crest spills down a wave.

<strong>3. Plunging Waves:</strong> The perfect wave for a surfer. These happen when a swell moves from deep waters to shallow ones. This obstructs the forward momentum of waves, resulting in a peak.
<h2>Key Tricks in Surfing</h2>
Let's be honest, the best part about watching surfing is seeing the tricks. And the best part about being one? Performing them! While there are many iterations of tricks in the sport, here are the five most important ones.

<strong>1. The Barrel:</strong> Surfing's most prized and difficult maneuver. It forms as the wave's crest pitches forward and over, leading to a hollow chamber within the wave.

[caption id="attachment_1329324" align="aligncenter" width="1920"]<img class="size-full wp-image-1329324" src="https://image-cdn.essentiallysports.com/wp-content/uploads/GettyImages-473055354-1.jpg" alt="Kelly Slater" width="1920" height="1280" /> RIO DE JANEIRO, RIO - MAY 12: Kelly Slater of the United States of America surfs during his Round 1 heat at the Oi Rio Pro on May 12, 2015 in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. (Photo by Daniel Smorigo/World Surf League via Getty Images)[/caption]

<strong>2. Bottom Turn:</strong> The most fundamental move in surfing. It happens when a surfer has stood up and dropped down the face of a wave. Once at the bottom of the wave, a surfer pivots their momentum towards the open face of a wave.

<strong>3. Top Turn:</strong> For a shortboard surfer, this is the most fundamental move. While riding a wave, the crest hangs there, begging to be 'hit.' And that is what surfers do by generating extra speed by dipping back in the wave's trough.

<strong>4. The Floater:</strong> Some waves do not break along the beach perfectly. When a surfer faces the situation, they must use their speed to ride up, onto, and across the crest to reach the other side of the wave's breaking section.

<strong>5. The Air:</strong> It is essentially launching off a wave into the air. What began as a simple jump has transformed into Air reverse or a 360 off the lip. This trick has the most variations, including inverted 540s, back-flips, and alley-oops.
<h2>Different Kinds of Surfing</h2>
Venturing into the final 'variety section' of the sport, we stumble upon the various kinds of surfing. Five major kinds of surfing are popular around the globe.

<strong>1. Freesurfing</strong>: This is simply non-competitive surfing. While there are no rules here, a strict code of conduct is duly followed.

<strong>2. Competition Surfing:</strong> While competitive rules vary between organizations, all of them have divisions. Broken down by age and gender, two to four surfers go against each other.

<strong>3. Shortboarding:</strong> Fast moves and quick tricks are the goals when surfing on a shortboard.

<strong>4. Longboarding:</strong> The 'classic' style of surfing. It consists of smooth and relaxed control of the board.

<strong>5. Tow Surfing:</strong> The sport's most recent and exclusive iteration. A jetski, tied with a waterski rope, held by a surfer doing tricks — that is Tow Surfing.
<h2>Major events in Surfing</h2>
<strong>1. Pipe Masters -</strong> Held at the Banzai Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. Consists of one of the most dangerous waves anywhere in the world.

<strong>2. WSL Finals -</strong> Lower Trestles, California, USA.

<strong>3. Surf Ranch Pro -</strong> Lemoore, California, USA. It is the only stop at an artificial wave.

<strong>4. Nazaré Tow Surfing -</strong> Nazaré, Portugal. Home to the world's biggest waves.

<strong>5. Triple Crown of Surfing -</strong> North shore of Oahu hosts two more events. Together, they are known as the Triple Crown of surfing. It is one of the most coveted titles in pro surfing.

<strong>6. Red Bull Cape Fear -</strong> A fan-favorite, it is the only big wave slab event in the world.

<strong>7. Jaws Big Wave Championships -</strong> Maui, Hawaii.

<strong>8. International Surfing Association World Surfing Games</strong>
<h2>Famous Surfers</h2>
<strong>1. Kelly Slater:</strong> Talking about individual achievements, Kelly Slater is the GOAT of surfing. He has won 11 World Titles in his career and owns the record for the youngest as well as the oldest Men's champion in history. Away from the waves, he also pioneered a wave pool technology that creates man-made waves for surfing.

[caption id="attachment_1329330" align="aligncenter" width="1920"]<img class="size-full wp-image-1329330" src="https://image-cdn.essentiallysports.com/wp-content/uploads/GettyImages-97653498.jpg" alt="" width="1920" height="1262" /> SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA - MARCH 12: Kelly Slater of the United States rides a wave into shore during an aerial expression session on day one of Surfsho at Bondi Beach on March 12, 2010 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by Cameron Spencer/Getty Images)[/caption]

<strong>2. Duke Kahanamoku:</strong> Famously called the 'Father of Surfing.' His contribution to surfing is what James Naismith's was to Basketball. An Olympic champion swimmer, Kahanamoku invented modern surfing in the 1920s.

<strong>3. Layne Beachley:</strong> The seven-time Women's World Champion is one of the most accomplished women to have taken up surfing. The Australian won six consecutive world titles from 1998 to 2003 — the only time any woman or man has achieved the feat. Her final title win came in 2006. She is also one of the few women to have competed against men.

&nbsp;

&nbsp;

Surfing

When put simply, surfing is the act of standing up on a specially designed-board and riding a wave. The choice of construction of the board varies from level of experience to personal preference. It is an exhilarating water sport that seems pretty straightforward but is far from one. From different kinds of surfboards to events to even particular kinds of waves, each factor changes the face of the game in an instant. In the early days, surfing was done exclusively in the ocean but now also happens in the US Great Lakes, The Mediterranean Sea, and even artificial wave pools. History of Surfing Famously dubbed &#8216;the sport of Kings,&#8217; Surfing originated in Hawaii. The island&#8217;s royalty and commoners practiced the sport as a recreational activity in the early 20th century. Touring surfers took the sport with them back to countries like the US and Australia, where it transformed into a global phenomenon. In 1976, a World Surfing Tour was founded, which is now called the World Surf League (WSL). Surfing has now grown into a multi-billion dollar industry and is governed by the International Surfing Association, representing 55 nations across the planet. The four kinds of Surfboards There are majorly four different kinds of surfboard that a surfer can choose from. Ranging from a short one to a long one, every surfer chooses these based on personal preference and expertise. But amateur surfers are advised to start with the longest possible board. Here is the breakdown of every board: 1. Shortboard: Is a six and a half feet or shorter board. Has little volume and three fins attached to the bottom. It is specifically designed for high-performance surfing. 2. Mini Mal, Mini Tanker, Funboard, Fish, Egg, Bonzer: These boards make up the rest of the shorter-side boards. While varying between five and eight feet, these boards have more volume than a shortboard. 3. Gun: A seven to nine feet board designed for surfing on large waves. 4. Longboards: The biggest of the bunch. These boards measure at nine feet or up. These boards come with either a tri-fin setup or a single-fin setup (best for classic surfing). Types of Surfing Waves Much like the boards, the waves also make a huge difference to the surfing experience. A swell is essential for surfing, without which one cannot surf. On average, a swell travels at roughly 15-20mph when it hits the shore. Broadly, there are three major waves identified in the surfing world. 1. Surging Waves: Useless for surfing. These waves come from deep water and onto steep beaches. And instead of breaking, these waves surge up on the beach. 2. Spilling Waves: A gently sloping sea floor gives way to these waves, causing a gradual peak. The energy release is rather slow, hence the crest spills down a wave. 3. Plunging Waves: The perfect wave for a surfer. These happen when a swell moves from deep waters to shallow ones. This obstructs the forward momentum of waves, resulting in a peak. Key Tricks in Surfing Let&#8217;s be honest, the best part about watching surfing is seeing the tricks. And the best part about being one? Performing them! While there are many iterations of tricks in the sport, here are the five most important ones. 1. The Barrel: Surfing&#8217;s most prized and difficult maneuver. It forms as the wave&#8217;s crest pitches forward and over, leading to a hollow chamber within the wave. RIO DE JANEIRO, RIO &#8211; MAY 12: Kelly Slater of the United States of America surfs during his Round 1 heat at the Oi Rio Pro on May 12, 2015 in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. (Photo by Daniel Smorigo/World Surf League via Getty Images) 2. Bottom Turn: The most fundamental move in surfing. It happens when a surfer has stood up and dropped down the face of a wave. Once at the bottom of the wave, a surfer pivots their momentum towards the open face of a wave. 3. Top Turn: For a shortboard surfer, this is the most fundamental move. While riding a wave, the crest hangs there, begging to be &#8216;hit.&#8217; And that is what surfers do by generating extra speed by dipping back in the wave&#8217;s trough. 4. The Floater: Some waves do not break along the beach perfectly. When a surfer faces the situation, they must use their speed to ride up, onto, and across the crest to reach the other side of the wave&#8217;s breaking section. 5. The Air: It is essentially launching off a wave into the air. What began as a simple jump has transformed into Air reverse or a 360 off the lip. This trick has the most variations, including inverted 540s, back-flips, and alley-oops. Different Kinds of Surfing Venturing into the final &#8216;variety section&#8217; of the sport, we stumble upon the various kinds of surfing. Five major kinds of surfing are popular around the globe. 1. Freesurfing: This is simply non-competitive surfing. While there are no rules here, a strict code of conduct is duly followed. 2. Competition Surfing: While competitive rules vary between organizations, all of them have divisions. Broken down by age and gender, two to four surfers go against each other. 3. Shortboarding: Fast moves and quick tricks are the goals when surfing on a shortboard. 4. Longboarding: The &#8216;classic&#8217; style of surfing. It consists of smooth and relaxed control of the board. 5. Tow Surfing: The sport&#8217;s most recent and exclusive iteration. A jetski, tied with a waterski rope, held by a surfer doing tricks — that is Tow Surfing. Major events in Surfing 1. Pipe Masters &#8211; Held at the Banzai Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. Consists of one of the most dangerous waves anywhere in the world. 2. WSL Finals &#8211; Lower Trestles, California, USA. 3. Surf Ranch Pro &#8211; Lemoore, California, USA. It is the only stop at an artificial wave. 4. Nazaré Tow Surfing &#8211; Nazaré, Portugal. Home to the world&#8217;s biggest waves. 5. Triple Crown of Surfing &#8211; North shore of Oahu hosts two more events. Together, they are known as the Triple Crown of surfing. It is one of the most coveted titles in pro surfing. 6. Red Bull Cape Fear &#8211; A fan-favorite, it is the only big wave slab event in the world. 7. Jaws Big Wave Championships &#8211; Maui, Hawaii. 8. International Surfing Association World Surfing Games Famous Surfers 1. Kelly Slater: Talking about individual achievements, Kelly Slater is the GOAT of surfing. He has won 11 World Titles in his career and owns the record for the youngest as well as the oldest Men&#8217;s champion in history. Away from the waves, he also pioneered a wave pool technology that creates man-made waves for surfing. SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA &#8211; MARCH 12: Kelly Slater of the United States rides a wave into shore during an aerial expression session on day one of Surfsho at Bondi Beach on March 12, 2010 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by Cameron Spencer/Getty Images) 2. Duke Kahanamoku: Famously called the &#8216;Father of Surfing.&#8217; His contribution to surfing is what James Naismith&#8217;s was to Basketball. An Olympic champion swimmer, Kahanamoku invented modern surfing in the 1920s. 3. Layne Beachley: The seven-time Women&#8217;s World Champion is one of the most accomplished women to have taken up surfing. The Australian won six consecutive world titles from 1998 to 2003 — the only time any woman or man has achieved the feat. Her final title win came in 2006. She is also one of the few women to have competed against men. &nbsp; &nbsp;

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Loved ones mourn the loss as the 61-year-old Californian surfer fell prey to a brutal wipeout and ended up losing his life.

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“Devastating. Just Devastating”: Saddening Death of Father and Grandfather of Four While Surfing, Sends His Loved Ones in Shock

https://www.essentiallysports.com/us-sports-news-surfing-news-devastating-just-devastating-father-and-grandfather-of-fours-saddening-death-while-surfing-sends-loved-ones-in-shock/

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“Devastating. Just Devastating”: Saddening Death of Father and Grandfather of Four While Surfing, Sends His Loved Ones in Shock

Surfing grandfather passed away while chasing big waves