They say ‘life’s a wave,’ and Kelly Slater sure knows that better than anyone. As great as he is, he’s learned that surfing and life are full of surprises. Now, the 11-time world champion is retired, which he announced this year in April after 44 years in the sport. But, as legendary as he is, his journey hasn’t been all smooth. He’s still grieving the loss of a close friend, and the pain is still fresh, sending chills down his spine whenever he thinks about it.

Back in 1995, a young California surfer named Donnie Solomon found himself in a life-or-death situation at Waimea Bay in Hawaii. Solomon was a surfer who loved to challenge himself in rough seas, as he was quite experienced in doing so. But on that particular day (December 23, 1995), he went for a wave, but he failed to catch it and was confronted with a huge set of waves. The ocean, being as unpredictable as it is, did not spare Solomon a second chance. He was thrown over by a huge wave, and unfortunately, he didn’t come up ever again.

Kelly Slater, one of Solomon’s close friends, was also present at the scene. Despite the efforts to revive Solomon, he couldn’t be brought back to life. Years later, in his book Kelly Slater: A Life of Waves, published this year, Kelly recounts the event of the day. He remembered that the last ride of Donnie, which Solomon said was the best wave of his life, happened at Waimea Bay on December 23, 1995. Slater described the moment, with him in the middle, Ross Clarke-Jones on the left, and Ross Williams pulling back, and he wished that Williams had also paddled with them. “Donnie died about twenty minutes later after missing catching another wave in,” Slater shared.

The memory of that day stuck with Slater, and it echoed into the professional sphere, especially during his career highs and lows. In his memoir, Slater reflected on a particularly grueling match with Rob Machado, where he had to dig deep to maintain his lead. He admitted that, despite the triumph of winning at the 1995 Pipeline Masters at Banzai Pipeline, Oahu, Hawaii, just a few days ago on December 18th and taking $100k, there was a bittersweet feeling lingering. But there was also a time in his life when Slater found himself facing a challenge far more personal and dangerous.

Kelly Slater’s shocking illness that nearly ended it all

It all started just days before the Vivo Rio Pro 2023, one of the biggest surf contests of the year. Kelly Slater shocked the surfing world with an Instagram post that no one saw coming. The 11-time World Surf League champion revealed that he had been struck down by a severe illness, and things weren’t looking good. “On day 5 of being sick now,” he wrote, detailing a rough mix of fevers, sinus issues, chills, headaches, and stomach flu. He sounded like he was fighting for his life, and the situation was serious enough that fans started fearing the worst.

With no clear diagnosis, many thought he might have contracted spinal meningitis, a condition that could easily take someone out for good. But as the Rio Pro began without him, there was an unsettling feeling that we might have just seen the last of the GOAT. But then came the twist. Just as quickly as the news of his illness had shaken the surf world, a healthy and very much alive Kelly Slater appeared back on the beaches of Hawaii. The sight of him looking strong and completely recovered was nothing short of miraculous.

It was as if he had never been sick. Fans, especially the Championship Tour surfers who’d made their way to Rio de Janeiro and beyond, must’ve been breathing a sigh of relief, seeing their legend return to form. It’s one of those moments that really makes you stop and think—life is pretty miraculous, right? Even when things get tough and we lose people or face challenges, those we love and admire stay with us in our hearts, never really gone.