“This Is a Gnarly One”: Despite Ideal Conditions, 39-Year-Old Pro Surfer Faced ‘Weird’ Wave That Turned Into a Monster

Free surfer Jamie O’Brien stepped out of the league 12 years ago and began living the sport without the pressure of chasing contests. Over the years, the 39-year-old surfer has traveled the world discovering the most incredible surfing spots and waves. Recently, O’Brien talked about one such wave in Hawaii that looked fairly basic, but turned out to be a thrilling experience.

On April 18, Jamie O’Brien shared a YouTube video about the most amazing waves he encountered this winter in Hawaii. By the end of the video, he described the wave that was “by far the best” and made O’Brien’s surfing experience very special.

Jamie O’Brien was surprised by the waves going from 6ft to 8ft in height

While talking about his top ten best surfing waves, Jamie O’Brien came to the no. 1 wave on his list at the end of the video. At first, he described the day when he surfed on that wave. O’Brien stated that he observed the waves that day for two hours before taking them on. He recounted the waves as weird and wonky. However, the surfer knew the surfing conditions were favorable since wind directions were perfect. Still, he could not understand the reason behind surfers getting wiped out.

At last, O’Brien decided to take it easy while going to the ocean. Initially, when he began surfing, he found the waves to be quite manageable. However, eventually, the waves took a monster-like shape going from 6ft to 8ft. O’Brien expressed, “I don’t know why sometimes the waves just unload on the reef differently and as I’m dropping in I’m like whoa this is a gnarly one”

Read More: “This Is How You Do It”: Decorated Surfer, Known for Crazy Adventures, Performs Board Transfers on Massive Waves

At that moment, he began to lose control of his surfing board, but eventually found the balance to keep it straight. Moreover, the heightened waves brought the surfer to a significantly low level, but he ultimately got out of it. O’Brien was very proud of experiencing an incredible wave like that. He stated, ” I was like wow I really liked. It was laid, it was deep, it was steep, it was heavy, it was gnarly, it was a big spit, I hit the foam ball.” Overall it added to a very special experience for him.

Besides experiencing thrilling waves, O’Brien recently had a fun anecdote about surfing with his partner at the Waikiki beach in Oahu, Hawaii.

O’Brien analyzed his surfing potential after the Waikiki experience

Last week, Jamie O’Brien shared a vlog on Facebook, filming his experience while surfing at the Waikiki beach with partner Tina Cohen. He stated that he was super excited to face the pipeline waves at the ocean because they usually are of various sizes.

However, as the duo faced the strong grueling pipeline waves, they were seen struggling to stay steady. There were also moments when they lost their balance and fell. By the end of the video, O’Brien remarked that he has to improve his nose-riding skills. He hilariously commented that his collaboration with Tina was not a good one.

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Fans are always thrilled with the whirlpool of surfing experience Jamie O’Brien goes through. In fact, he is also famous for doing crazy surfing stunts that can be only imagined in our dreams!