“It’s Like a One-In-Million Kind”: Surfing Legend Relishes ‘Rare’ Wave Break at Pipeline

Surfing is one of the most thrilling sports in the world. And with the thrill comes the threats as well. Unlike other sports, one cannot prepare a field for surfing. The sea is natural, and so are the waves. It is totally on the surfers how well they react to those waves with their skills and presence of mind. As the Billabong Pro Pipeline 2023 is going on, the World Surf League and Inherent Bummer have come up with a series dedicated to surfers. The series is dedicated to the proficient, devoted, and fortunate enough to tackle ‘The One’ in the world’s most famous, dangerous wave.

In a recent episode of that series, the famous surfer, Mark Healey, was featured in a video for his one-in-a-million pipeline wave. In the video, he reveals what makes that wave so special. Let’s dive right into what Healey said about his experience with ‘The One’ wave.

The high-wave surfing legend surfer talks about his one-in-a-million wave experience

Mark Healey is a known legend when it comes to Pipeline. Whether it be a small wave or a giant stormy wave, Healey is aware of the several moods of the waves and has mastered tackling them. But, even the master can get an out-of-syllabus question sometimes. And in the episode uploaded on 28 January 2023, by Billabong’s official YouTube channel, he talks about that rare, one-in-a-million wave.

In the video, while recalling the big day, Healey said, “I just had a feeling that day. I saw a couple almost do it, and then one popped up. I was almost not getting into it, but I just put my head down and paddled as hard as I could. I got up, and I didn’t even know where I was.” 

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He continued, “I could see the reef and the whole crowd at Pipeline like, way over. At a certain point I was like, ‘I don’t even know what it’s going to do when it gets there, but I have to try.’ I just tried to create as much speed as I could. And I ended up making this wave all the way through Pipe. It’s not that it was the craziest, most intense barrel or anything like that. It was just a one-in-a-million wave, and that’s what I appreciate more.”

Other than Healey, Seth Moniz, Moana Jones, and many other surfers also revealed their best ones in this series for the Billabong Pro-Pipeline 2023.

Speaking about Billabong Pro-Pipeline 2023, the tournament has reached the Round of 32. And notably, all top players, including the legendary 50-year-old Kelly Slater, have moved into the next round.

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What do you think about the brilliant work by Mark Healey in the rare wave he faced? Let us know in the comment section.