Legendary American Climber, Who Pushed the Limits, Passes Away at 96

Allen Steck was one of the most influential rock climbers who pioneered the sport in America. Debuted in 1947, Steck’s first ascent was in Yosemite Valley. He climbed the Hummingbird Ridge on Mount Logan, Canada, which no one has repeated after him. He was no stranger to problematic rock climbing. During his career, Steck used to hike along trails and crawl up to rocky peaks.

Steck left for his heavenly abode last week. Notably, the legendary climber was 96 when he took his last breath. Let’s get a bird’s-eye view of his career.

Allen Steck’s rock climbing legacy

As per Gripped, the legendary climber died on February 23rd, 2023 at the age of 96. Evidently, Steck broke several barriers while building a stellar career in the 1950s and 1960s. He had been performing several first ascends throughout his 70-year career. Steck was the first American ever to mount one of the famed “Six Great North Faces of the Alps”. And he completed that with Karl Lugmayer, the face of the Cima Grande, in the Dolomites.

In 1950, Steck teamed up with another important name in the sport’s history, John Salathé, to ascend Sentinel Rock in Yosemite. The two pros rose to the Headwall, placing six bolts and many marginal pitons while defeating their most hostile enemy, heat. The duo conquered the enervating condition caused by the hot weather at the Sentinel, which resulted in the outpouring of sweat, fatigue, and cramps. Despite the adversities, Steck achieved what he sought.

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While describing his ascent in the Sierra Club Bulletin in 1951, the legend shared, “The ascent of this wall was probably the toughest that either of us had ever made, or ever hoped to make again. Though John has 51 years to my 24, the climb seemed to have little effect on his endurance; only toward the end of the third day did he seem to show signs of wear, but then both of us were ready to acknowledge the pleasures of simple back country hiking. It was just too damned hot.”

Some of his other hiking experiences comprised bicycling to the Alps in 1949 and going on a prolonged expedition to the Himalayas’ Makalu range in 1954, and finding a new route on Mount Waddington. Steck was also the co-founder of Ascent and Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, along with his longtime peer Steve Roper.

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He was a generous, stable-tempered man with good humor. Friends will remember this legend with the anecdotes about Greek music, dancing, and of course the time they spent together while on expeditions.