Jordan Brand recently teased sneakerheads by sharing a photo of a crumpled-up letter, hinting at the return of the iconic “Banned” Air Jordan 1. The letter seemed oddly familiar–it matched one sent from the NBA to Nike in 1985, allegedly informing the company that MJ couldn’t wear the shoe.

That infamous letter is dated February 25, 1985, and the Air Jordan 1 “Banned” is expected to drop again in February 2025 to mark its 40th anniversary. At the time, the NBA had strict uniform rules, and players were required to wear mostly white shoes. And it widely believed that Nike paid a $5,000 fine every time Jordan laced up his red-and-black kicks.

But that’s not the actual story. Let’s explore the foundational moment of the Air Jordan legacy.

The real story behind the ban

When Michael Jordan entered the NBA in 1984, he was already a sensation. He skipped his senior year at UNC and was drafted by the Chicago Bulls. That same year, he signed with Nike in a groundbreaking five-year contract worth $500,000 annually, according to ESPN. This partnership birthed the Air Jordan line, and MJ and Nike built an empire. Today, that empire is worth over $3 billion, all from the shoes of a rookie who hadn’t even played a professional game yet.

Now, fast forward to October 1984. A 21-year-old Jordan took the court for a preseason game against the Knicks, wearing what he later called “the Devil’s colors” – black and red sneakers. These bold kicks caught the eye of David Stern, the NBA commissioner at the time. And it wasn’t just a passing glance. Stern wasn’t happy with Jordan’s rebellious footwear choice.

Finally, Nike received the now-legendary letter from the NBA. The association cited “rules and procedures” that banned the shoes. While the letter didn’t say it outright, the shoes violated the NBA’s “51% rule,” which required that most of a player’s shoes be white. Jordan’s black-and-red sneakers? Not even close to compliant.

How MJ’s “banned” sneaker built an empire

For decades, Nike leaned into the controversy surrounding the Air Jordan 1. They plastered black censor bars over the sneakers in TV commercials, branding them as “banned” to create intrigue. The strategy worked. Nike masterfully positioned Michael Jordan as a rebel, an athlete who broke the mold and made his own rules. But here’s the catch—Nike’s story wasn’t entirely true. It was all about building a myth.

Interestingly, when Michael Jordan faced those fines from the NBA, he wasn’t even wearing the Air Jordan 1 “Banned” at all. He sported the Nike Air Ship, which had the same black-and-red color scheme. In fact, Jordan never wore the “Banned” version of his signature shoe in any NBA game. Instead, he stuck with the league-approved “Chicago” and “Black Toe” colorways. The only time the “Banned” sneaker made an appearance on-court was during the 1985 NBA Dunk Contest, where Jordan dominated as a rookie.

However, Nike didn’t let this marketing gold slip away. They spun the narrative further, implying that the Air Jordan 1 was simply too good for the NBA. It wasn’t just a sneaker that broke uniform rules—it was something bigger, turning the “Banned” shoe into a must-have for sneakerheads.

Since its original release in April 1985, the Air Jordan 1 “Banned” has only dropped six times. The last release came in 2016, and in 2011, Nike added an “X” to the heel, leaning into the “Banned” nickname even more. Reissues also came in 1994 and 2013. And now, the “Banned” sneaker is set to return in 2025 for its 40th anniversary. Expect to pay a little more this time around, with prices rumored to start at $250.

Nike was never MJ’s first choice

Surprisingly, Michael Jordan never had his sights set on Nike. In college, he wore Converse, and according to ESPN, he was eager to sign with Adidas when he turned pro. It wasn’t just Jordan who had doubts about Nike—Phil Knight, the head of Nike, wasn’t sure either. According to the Los Angeles Times, Knight hesitated to back Jordan, who was drafted third in a stacked class that also included stars like Charles Barkley.

Interestingly, Jordan’s massively successful deal with Nike might never have happened without the intervention of his mother, Delores. As Roland Lazenby, author of Michael Jordan: The Life, explained, Jordan’s agent had to call Delores when a tired MJ wanted to skip his meeting with Nike. It was her encouragement that led him to attend, and the rest is sneaker history.

Today, decades after his final NBA game, Jordan has become one of the highest-earning athletes of all time. And while he’s famous for making bold moves on his own terms, there’s no doubt he’s grateful he took his mom’s advice that day.